Monday, December 12, 2011

One Pot of Comfort


“Winter” seems to finally be creeping in on the Northeast. Consequently, I haven’t been in the brightest of moods. More frequent are the days when I crave something comforting. Something brisket-y.

One-pot meals not only warm the soul, they lend themselves to any creative genius you’ve got lurking within. They’re like that kid at recess that really does play well with others. Good thing, because I was in the mood for a freestyle kitchen day last week.

After some debate, I decided on a brisket chili. I’d go to the store and choose the other ingredients – I like picking out what looks best, not what I’m told to pick out by some bossy recipe writer. The poblanos and yellow peppers looked beautiful, so I decided that, along with the standard mire-poix (onion/carrot/celery), they’d be the vegetal base for my chili. I like a little heat, so I threw in a jalapeno for good measure. 


Vegetable Base
2 yellow onions, medium dice
2 carrots, medium dice
2 stalks celery, medium dice
1 bell pepper, medium dice
1 poblano pepper
1 jalapeno, small dice
3 cloves garlic, minced
1- 12oz bottle of beer (any will work, but a winter ale seemed appropriate)
1- 28oz can diced, unsalted tomatoes
1- 8oz can tomato sauce
2 TBSP paprika
2 TBSP sriracha 
Plenty of salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 350.

Roast the poblano pepper over an open flame until almost completely charred, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and immediately seal with plastic wrap. Set aside.



Place a dutch oven with a small amount of olive oil over medium heat and add the first 4 ingredients to the pan. Season with salt & pepper and cook until the onions begin to turn translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add the jalapeno, paprika and garlic, stir, and cook another minute. Transfer vegetable mix to a bowl and set aside. 



Remove the skin and seeds from the roasted poblano. Dice and add to vegetable mix. 

Set dutch oven aside; you'll use it to prepare the brisket.

For the Brisket
2lb. Beef brisket, cut into 2" cubes
2 cups AP flour
2 TBSP salt
1 TBSP pepper
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp paprika

Mix the flour and seasonings together and place in a shallow dish. Dredge each piece of brisket in the flour mixture, and set aside.

Reheat the dutch oven over medium high heat with 2-3 TBSP olive oil. Sear the meat, in batches if needed, until golden brown but not cooked through, about 5 minutes total. 



Reduce heat to medium low and add the beer. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the bottom of the pan to remove any drippings that have stuck to the pan. 

Add any remaining meat, the vegetable mixture, the diced tomatoes and sauce, and the sriracha. 

Cover and transfer pot to the oven and cook 2-2.5hrs. Remove from oven, taste and adjust seasoning as needed.  Continue to cook in oven, uncovered, for another 2 hours. Be sure to monitor the liquid levels every 30 minutes, adding beef stock or water as needed and stirring pot to prevent scorching. 

Remove from oven and allow to sit for 30 minutes.

Remove the brisket pieces from the chili and transfer to a large mixing bowl.  Using two forks, shred the brisket, then add it back to the chili. 

For the Garnish
Sour cream
Cheddar cheese, grated
Scallions, sliced
Cilantro, chopped

These are just things that I used, but feel free to go nuts. Tortilla chips? Diced jalapenos? Your chili, your call. 




Thursday, December 1, 2011

French Vietnamese in SoHo


I’ve been away, in every sense of the term. California + Friendsgiving + Peppering of Visitors = Distracted Matty.  Anyway, I’m back and yes, I’ve been eating.

Taking out-of-towners to dinner is a task that requires much consideration. What kind of food do they like? Do I want to take them to a tried and true, or will we go somewhere for the first time together? Recently, the latter won and I found myself at Rouge et Blanc with 3 in tow.

I admit that I picked this venue based on a review from the NY Times which had, I thought, pointed me towards everything I would order, including the whole fried rouget. I’d start with monkey bread too. 

Wrong. Our cute yet timid waitress greeted us with news that the Rouget was eighty-sixed for the night. Oh, and that monkey bread? There was just enough in house for the main it accompanied, a vegetable curry. Did I mention I was dining with someone who despises curry? Bust.

I picked myself up off the ground, scanned the menu and ordered for the table, desperately trying to remember what dishes Mr. Asimov had deemed bland.

We started with the Heirloom Radish Salad, beautiful in presentation.  The crisp-cool radish slices were balanced well by pepitas and salty bits of pork. If this dish was to set the tone for the entire meal, I trust we would have left with grins bigger than one belonging to the Cheshire Cat. 


Next up: squid stuffed with short rib, perched on a bed of white beans and a radically green sauce. Flavors here are nice, but something wasn’t adding up texturally. Maybe it’s me, not used to this version of surf and turf.



Out came a salad of green papaya (a personal favorite) adorned with whole fried prawns. A looker, this dish would’ve hit every mark had the prawns not been a bit overcooked.



“So beautiful!” one of my cohorts exclaimed as she peeled back parchment paper to reveal an assortment of mushrooms cloaked in soy and garlic butter. The romantic text for this menu item ought to be replaced with “Umami Explosion.” Just saying.



The clouds before the kitchen parted, cute yet timid descended, and – gasp – plunked one piece of monkey bread down before us.  Everything that was promised and more.  Just not enough.

Then, there was the least satisfying dish of the night – the Barigoule. Spanish Mackerel and Prawn cooked perfectly. Scallops leaned towards the mushy side, and the sunchoke seemed to masquerade as a sea creature.  The redeeming quality was the lovely broth, perfectly balanced and practically begging to be a ride for a thick piece of hearth bread.



A final course of mustard-marinated lamb ribs arrived. Also on the plate: eggplant confit and roti bread. Spiced, fatty, and just a touch gamey, the ribs were a pleasant ending note to the meal. 



Would I return? I’m not in a rush, but the great wine list and the quiet, almost French-countryside ambiance left enough of an impression. Plus, I still need to get my hands on that elusive rouget.